St Antonin borders the river Aveyron and the Gresigne Forest, the largest oak wood in the South-West of France. From the town, you have a magnificent view on the limestone cliffs, the Roc d'Anglars. Saint-Antonin-noble-val is proud of its Roman roots roots: the name “Nobilis Vallis” means “noble valley”. In the 8th century, an abbey was founded near the small settlement; it was named after Antonin, an local Christian missionary. In the middle-ages, St-Antonin was a prosperous town: commerce of wine, saffron and dried plums was booming, as were cloth weaving and tanneries. It was one of the first towns in feudal France to receive a charter with the rights to organise its own government, and to erect walls around.
In 13th century the Cathar religion was developing in southern France; the Pope and French king called for a crusade against the Albigensian. In 1212 the crusaders besiege Saint-Antonin, take it and destroy both city and abbey. Under royal protection, commerce and industry were restored until the Hundred Years War started in the 14th century. Saint-Antonin borders the English possessions, and becomes a battlefield: occupation by the English in 1344, 1351, again French after a 2 years siege, again English in 1369: a long series of disasters due to war, looting, famine, black death... A new prosperous time has come in the 16th century, t, alas, not for long: the Religion Wars arrive. In 1562 Antonin becomes a “protestant republic”, the abbey and the church are dismantled, the ramparts fortified. Louis XIII besieges the city in 1622, takes it and demolishes the fortifications, and persecutes the Huguenots. The heyday of St Antonin is definitively over.
Nowadays, St Antonin is a small medieval town, with its narrow streets and small squares: it is like an open-air museum, with nice buildings from the middle-ages , a few from 18th and 19th centuries. The Sunday market is one of the nicest from the entire region, where only local products are sold: fresh vegetables and fruits, dried fruits and spices, bread and pastries, goose liver and delicatessen, wine, products from organic farming...
Visiting St-Antonin will not take long, especially on weekdays without market. The main activity in the area is either walking or cycling. In the summer, you can rent a kayak: in the water, you'll have quite a different view on the cliffs of the Aveyron gorges. You will find romantic places for a picnic, having bought bread, fruits and cheese on the market.
Artichaud is an eco-friendly B&B near Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val. From here you have a good starting point for cycling or walking in the Aveyron canyon, the Gresigne Forest, the bastides albigeoises and the Gaillac vineyard. Surely we can help you to prepare your visit to the region: walkers ourselves, we know most of the signposted walks here around, and every year we discover nice places on our trips.
If you like walking, and are thinking of a holiday in South-West France, you should look to our walking holiday arrangement: one week walk and stay in a nice place with good meals and nice wines.
Text & pictures: © Bed and Breakfast Artichaud
